
Picture courtesy of Elisabetta Grondona
Portofino, Italy in the
Province of Genoa, has long been a tourist destination for the rich and
famous. It is an ancient maritime village with houses that are set in a
semi-circle around the harbour and the square, while others cling
precariously to stone foundations built directly onto the rocks below.
It is a dreamlike facade and prettiest at sunrise when the sun shines
on the brightly coloured walls in hues of peach, terracotta and pales
yellows and make even a wintery sun feel bright and cheerful.
Where once tiny, colourful, wooden fishing boats belonging to
the locals bobbed up and down in the harbour, now there are luxury
super yachts that come from well-heeled areas like Monacco and the
like, and the fishing boats are bigger and more seaworthy. However,
despite this change, Portofino, Italy is still a charming place to
visit, and definitely should be a stop if you are in the area.
Portofino, Italy is actually part of the Levante Riviera of
Liguria of which
Portofino is just one of the 8 towns that make up this area. The other riviera being the
Riviera dei Fiori or
Flower Riviera.
Besides being a dreamlike facade, Portofino is a village that posseses
a soul and a history. It has a wonderful old fortress and castle of San
Giorgio (Saint George, of the
dragon-slaying days) which are reminders of its role in the Republic of
Genoa.
Leading down from the castle is a flight of stairs that take
you to the church. The Romanesque church of San Giorgio has relics of
Saint George, or so they say, and it dates back to the 12th century
rising above straight cliffs. Make sure that you enjoy the striking
views at the top.
If you are wanting an even more spectacular view you can carry on
towards the lighthouse which is an hour's walk there and back , and is
a pleasant diversion for those who want a bit of nature and sea air.
If you are feeling very energetic there is a 2 1/2 hour walk that you
can take that takes you to San Fruttuoso. This is a wonderful walk if
you are fit and healthy that will take you along the cliff face
overlooking the ocean. San Fruttuoso is only accessible by foot, either
from Portofino or Camogoli, or by ferry, and it is here that
you can see the bronze statue of Christ that rests on the
seabed, 50 feet below the sea where you can take dives to see
it. It was placed there in 1954 to honour local divers who have been
lost at sea, as well as to bless the waters.
There are, of course, some fishing boats that are still in operation by
the locals continuing their maritime activities, and the
women of Portofino, Italy make the most wonderful lace which can be
bought here.
There are no accessible beaches in Portofino. However, if you want to
find a beach you will have to travel along Lungomare Raffaele
Rossertti, which is the road between Portofino and S. Margherita. Here
there are many places where you can access the water.
One word of advice. Portofino is a no-car zone. This means that if you
have a hire care, parking can become very expensive as you will have to
park in designated car parks outside the town, and walk down. There are
some hotels who will take care of the parking for you, but it will
still cost you. If you have heavy suitcases, or are elderly, you will
need to take this into consideration when visiting Portofino, Italy.
In the summer Portofino, Italy becomes a nightmare for drivers as the
roads are very narrow, and not built for the volume of traffic that it
gets during the height of the tourist season. My advice would
be to park at Santa Margherita Ligure and then take the 10 minute ferry
across.
Walk around the town, window shop as what is displayed here is
frightfully expensive, have a quick look around, and then go back to
Santa Margherita Ligure for a better priced meal, as eating here is
expensive.
How to Get There:
By car:
If you are travelling by car, you can travel along the
A12/E80. You will come across toll roads here, so make sure
you have some small change for the toll booth. If you are looking at
distances:
Genoa to Portofino: The distance is only 15 miles, or 25
kilometers but can take you
about 1 hour due to traffic.
By Train: The
nearest station to Portofino is Santa Margherita Ligure, around 30
minutes by train from Genoa. From there you will need Bus 82. The bus
ride is 15 minutes.
If you are
travelling by train
from Milan, your travel destinations would be: Milan -
Genoa - Santa Margherita Ligure, then the local bus to Portofino (Bus
82). The bus ride is 15 minutes.
If you are
travelling by train from Florence, your travel
destinations would be: Florence - Genoa - Santa Margherita Ligure, then
the local bus to Portofino (Bus 82). The bus ride is 15
minutes. The train ride between Florence and Genoa is 3 hours.
If you are
travelling by train from Rome, again there is no direct
service and you will have to change. Trip will take between 5-6 hours.
By Boat:
You can get to Portofino from Santa Margherita Ligure via ferry. It is
a 10 minute ride.
By Plane:
The closest major airport to Portofino is the Christopher Columbus
airport in Genoa (Aeroporto Cristoforo Colombo di Genova - GOA). From
there one could rent a car, as it is a relatively short (22 1/4 miles,
35.8 km) ride but could take up to an hour due to traffic and narrow,
twisty roads once you leave the A12.