Liguria
Italy
is a playground for the rich and famous. It is a feast for travellers
offering magnificent beaches, to skiing, mountain climbing and skin
diving. With a coastline that has
clean beaches, a mild climate all year round from the protecting
mountains, coastal and mountain villages and good Italian
food, Liguria has it all!
2/5ths of the population live in the capital city of
Genoa. Although
Liguria is one of the smallest regions, it has the largest population
density in Italy, after
Campania and
Lombardy. 90% of the people live
along the coast and 2/5ths live in the capital city of Genoa. Due to
their lifestyle, the mild climate and their Mediterranean diet, The
people from Liguria have one of the highest life expectancy rates in
the world.
The Ligurian people are known to be frugal with their money, and
resourceful with the use of the little land that they have. A typical
Ligurian is swarthy, with black hair, many of whom are of Greek origin.
Camogli Liguria Italy
Liguria italy home to 2 Italian Rivieras:
- Riviera di Ponente which includes the Riviera dei Fiori
Both of these rivieras are neatly bisected with
Genoa in the middle. The overdeveloped
Riviera di Ponente, west of
Genoa
, has some of the most
expensive holiday resorts in Europe, and if you don't want to break the
bank, it is best to stay elsewhere and may day trips to this area.
East of
Genoa, the
Riviera di Levante offers beautiful
untouched villages set in mountain terrain.
If
you are looking for a busy, tourist destination then head for the west where you will find colourful and thriving seaside towns
like San Remo, which has 1 of
only 4 casinos in Italy. You will also
find Bordighera, Ventimiglia, and Imperia along the azure
coastline, and unspoilt hilltop villages steeped in tradition such as Apricale,
Isolabona, Pigna, Ceriana
and Dolceacqua, to name
just a few.
The
east of Liguria is more undeveloped and rugged. It is less
commercialized in places and therefore considered off the beaten path. Exceptions to this are the heavily visited town of
Portofino and the 5 towns
of Cinque Terra.
Most
people today come to Liguria for the wonderful climate, the clean
beaches the fresh seafood and many unspoilt villages both on the coast
and in the mountains that have largely remain unchanged over time.
Travel Tip:
If you wish to avoid the busy roads and congestion during the summer,
especially in July and August, as well as during festival times, then
avoid the S1 when travelling between towns and take the A10 if you are
travelling west, or the A12 if travelling east. These roads will help
avoid the snarl-ups you might encounter.
Riviera Dei Fiori
Hanbury Garden
Riviera Dei Fiori translated means the Flower Riviera.
This is because cut flowers are grown on the many flower farms in the
region due to the mild climate. It is also the home of the world's
largest botanical gardens. This is the Hanbury Garden (Giardino
Hanbury) started in 1867 and can be found at Mortola Inferiore. For
those of you who love gardening, this is not to be missed. It is a
special place where not only will you find plants and flowers from 5
different continents, you will also be able to enjoy spectacular views
of the coast from the gardens.
See the official website for more information:
http://www.giardinihanbury.com/
Ventimiglia
Ventimiglia is the first Ligurian town you will come across as you
leave France and enter Italy. It is a typical border town that can get
really busy during weekend markets when the French descend looking for
a bargain.
However, Ventimiglia has been around for a long time. In fact, during
the Roman era it was called Albintimilium and as a result you can find
some important Roman ruins in this town. There is a 2nd century AD
arena with its first level of steps still in tact, the porta di
Provenza (Gate to Provence), baths and mosaic floors.
This is also the place where you can explore the
Caves of Balzi Rossi.
Hidden below the village of Grimaldi, which rises steeply out of the
sea, are the caves of Balzi Rossi. Their name coming from the
reddishness of the rocks. These caves were used 200, 000 years ago by
cave men. We know this as many archaelogical digs unearthed stone
tools, ornaments and fossils of animals. These can all be found at the
National Museum of Prehistory in Ventimiglia.
Bordighera
Bordighera, a stone's throw from Ventimiglia is a famous winter
resort. Many Englishmen moved here towards the end of the 19th century
and evidence of this can be seen. Instead of the usual espresso and
cappuccino one can see many sipping afternoon tea instead.
Because it was the first European town to grow palm tress on its
coastline, it is now the official provider of palm fronds to the
Vatican for Palm Sunday and other Easter celebrations.
It is a less commercial city in the area, and a better choice than San
Remo if you are looking for somewhere with less tourists. The other
nice thing about Bordighera is that unlike other towns on the Riviera
it doesn't close down over winter, and has many fine hotels and
restaurants for every budget.
San Remo
San Remo, Italy is a lively, bustling seaside resort known for its many
beaches, medieval architecture in the old quarter, La Pigna, and its
casino. This is the capital town of this area and is a mecca for
tourists and sunworshipers.
The beaches are good in places with miles of fine sand, and in others
not so good with pebble beaches instead. However, San Remo is a good
place to base yourself if you want to explore the Flower Riviera and
also its hinterland. Is a place with great restaurants too.
Imperia
Imperia, 26 kms from San Remo going east is in fact two towns. It is
made up of Porto Maurizio, a Medieval town, and Oneglia an industrial
town known for its oil refining and pharmaceuticals. Forget about
Oneglia, it is ugly and hasn't any redeeming features. The Medieval
town is different. It has an almost intact Medieval center, the Parasio
quarter, and narrow streets, cobbled alleyways and stone portals.
Ancient ruin looking out from the Ligurian Coastline
Food from Liguria Italy
The local Ligurian food has been shaped by the dense population living
on such a small amount of land, as well as those that came before; the
Romans, Greeks, Barbarians, Lombardians, the Normans and the Saracens
have all heavily influenced the cooking of the region.
It is heavily influenced too by its location, and so most dishes that
are eaten are fresh from the sea where mussels and anchovies take pride
of place with many dishes created around these two prizes of the
sea.
Liguiran cooking is based on humble ingredients, and again
resourcefulness of using every bit of the animal or plant in their
cooking. One such regional Lingurian dish is
Ventresca di Vitello
Piena, suffed calf stomach. Stuffed with turnips, ricotta
cheese, pistachio nuts, cheese, tongue, other vegetables and
ingredients it is then baked in the oven.
The Ligurians are a master at using mountain herbs gathered in the
spring and summer to compliment their dishes. Borage is still widely
used as a substitute for spinach when it is not available and used in
pasta fillings.
Farinata is
a Genovese dish of tripe flavoured with mushrooms and pine nuts,
and
zuppa di ceci is
a chickpea soup. Another soup is
Mes'ciua made
with boiled chickpeas, beans and spelt, an ancient grain seen
throughout this area, as well as Tuscany and known locally as
faro.
Pesto comes
from this region and when made fresh with the right ingedients is
sublime. Forget about that rubbish you see in bottles on the
supermarket shelves. Make your own as it is so simple. Use olive oil,
basil, pine nuts, garlic and parmesan and you have a wonderful
signature Ligurian dish.
Pasta is also different here. Here you can find past like
troffie and
trenette as well
as ravioli such as
pansotti
which is a stuffing made with oven-cooked vegetables and herbs with a
delicious walnut sauce.
Focaccias
and savoury pies are a speciality of this region, from the simple
focaccia with oil and rosemary to those filled with cheese. One of my
favorite savoury pies of the region is
torta pasqualina,
layers of puff pastry filled with spinach, ricotta cheese, herbs and
eggs.
A dessert that is frequently seen is
torta di riso
which is a rice cake made with rosewater and sugar.
Wine from Liguria Italy
The vineyards
here cling to the cliffs overlooking the sea and the grape grows
tenaciously blessed by the balmy climate and kissed by the sea breezes
off the coast. North of La Spezia
in the Cinque Terre fishing
villages, vines are grown on steep and inaccessible terraces,
where they have been grown like that since ancient times.
The Riviera
di Levante produces some very good whites, especially Cinque
Terre DOC, a dry white with a delicate bouquet, as well as the
Sciacchetrà, hard to find, but a great red after-dinner wine.
Other good Ligurian wines come
from the Riviera di Ponente with Pigato and Vermentino being
notable whites, but Pigato being
strongly recommended. And then ther is Rossese di Dolceacqua
being a very drinkable, and delicate red, along with Valpolcevera Rosso.
Markets of Liguria Italy
There is nothing better than to wonder around local markets looking at
handicrafts, homegrown produce and antiques doing the rounds. In towns
and villages around Liguria there are regular antique markets that take
place where you may be lucky enough to pick up a bargain.
Here are some of the antique and handicraft markets that you will find in the area.
- Ameglia
(July) Antique market.
- Arma di Taggia
(Viale delle Palme on Saturdays and Via Soleri
on Sundays, third weekend of the month) About 30 stands. This is a
great market for collectors with an array of interesting objects to
look at.
- Bogliasco
(Piazza XXVI Aprile, first Sunday of the month) About 20 to 30 stands of furniture and antique
- Calice Ligure
(May and September) Handicrafts market
- Calizzano
(August) Antique market
- Campo Ligure (End of August) Jewelry market of gold and silver jewelry
- Chiavari
(Via Martiri dellaLliberazione e Caruggio Drito, second Sunday of the month and following Saturday). Antique market of about 120 stands.
- Finale Ligure
(Chiostro di Santa Caterina, first Saturday and Sunday of the month). Antique market of about 30 stands.
- Genova
(Palazzo Ducale, first Saturday of the month except in August
and September. In December the market takes place on the second Saturday of
the month). Flea and antique market of about 80 stands.
- Isolabona
(Piazzetta della Chiesa, Piazza Martiri, first Sunday of the
month). This is a good opportunity to browse and see the curious and the ancient all in one place.
- Laigueglia
(July) Beautiful regional market with all sorts of local handicrafts.
- Mallare
(September) Antique market
- Millesimo
(May and September) Flea market (July) Antique market
- Pietra Ligure
(Piazza XX Settembre and Piazza La Pietra, last Saturday and Sunday of the month). Handicraft and antique market of about 50 stands.
- Recco
(Piazza Nicoloso, third Sunday of the month) Antique market of about 30 stands.
- Sarzana
(First Sunday of the month) Antique market
- Sassello
(August) Antique market
- Savona
(Historic Town, first Saturday and Sunday of the month). This is a unique flea market where you can buy antique ceramics.
- Vallecrosia
(Historic Town, central square, second Sunday of the month). About 80 stands of handicrafts and antiques
How to Get There: